When it comes to jetting indoor drain lines with the power of an outdoor jetter, having the right setup and method of remote-control is key. Let’s break down how to do it safely and efficiently via 4 different methods.

Controlling Your “Outdoor” Jetting Power Indoors

Electric-powered mini-jetters are great for indoor use since they don’t produce exhaust fumes, but they’re very limited in jetting power due to the horsepower-limitation of wall-outlet power (typically only 1.5 to 2 HP max). That might be fine for clearing soft clogs in small drains, but if you’re dealing with heavy grease, roots, wipes, etc., you’ll typically need more jetting force. Maybe you’ve got a larger engine-driven jetter; so how can you safely and effectively bring the power of your larger indoors? This is where remote-control options for your larger jetter change the game. When electric mini-jetters don’t have enough muscle, bringing the hose & nozzle indoors from your larger outdoor jetter gives you the force needed for tougher blockages - if you can remotely start and stop the jetting flow…

Best Method: Wireless Remote Control

Obviously this is the handiest recommendation, enabling total jetting control at your fingertips. Jetters Northwest has literally hundreds of customers using its Wireless Remotes in the field every day, proving their reliability for real-world service companies. And its Wireless Remote dies much more than just control jetting on & off:

• Remote Jetting On/Off Control: Start and stop the jetting flow/pressure with the press of a button - anytime.
• Remote Engine On/Off Control: Start and kill the jetter’s engine remotely, at your convenience.
• Remote Throttle & Pressure/Flow Adjustability: adjust your jetting pressure and flow up and down via the engine throttle at any time.
• Optional Hose-Reel Control: deluxe remotes also enable hose-reel windup with the press of a button.

More benefits:

• Job Flexibility & Productivity: Pause to get a quick camera-view, talk to your customer, reposition or swap nozzles, etc.  No need to walk back out to the jetter; no need to radio a co-worker.
• Proven Reliability: Tested to over 1/4 mile away with no signal loss, even through buildings, ensuring your JNW remote works through walls and for as long as your hoses can reach. Cheap units often lose connectivity indoors or simply don’t have the range to get deep enough into the building for every job.

Beyond convenience, wireless remote control improves jetting productivity and safety. For most of our customers, the wireless remote cuts labor costs by turning a two-person jetting-job into a one-person job for a more efficient and competitive operation. And for safety’s sake, the remote lets you shut down the jetter immediately in an emergency. What’s more, enabling the operator to start and stop the engine remotely at the jetting-access reduces fuel consumption and machine-hours, rather than letting it run when not jetting or having to walk back and forth to  start or kill its engine. Next, let’s move on to “Manual Remote-Valve” methods of remote jetting on/off control. Simply adding a high-pressure valve to remotely control jetting on/off is often the least expensive and easiest remote to set up, but please note that these methods have a few caveats to consider:

• “Manual” remote-valves can only control jetting on and off (no engine on/off/throttle controls).
• A “secondary” jetting-hose with nozzle must be connected after the manual remote-valve to enable jetting at the indoor pipe-access. A second hose is needed because the remote-valve must be installed in place of the nozzle at the end of the jetter’s main hose, which will then serve as an “umbilical cord” to feed water to the remote-valve and secondary hose/nozzle setup that’s jetting the line at the remote access.
• Closing a secondary/remote valve typically retains pressure in the jetter’s main “umbilical” hose, whether or not you are actively jetting, and if your jetter simply has a relief-type valve (rather than an unloader valve), then its engine will remain under load and consuming fuel at a higher rate whether you are jetting or not.

Important: Your jetter must have a built-in unloader valve or regulating relief-type valve to automatically divert the high-pressure jetting-flow into a “bypass loop” when you close the “remote” valve. If your jetter only has a “burst disc” to relieve pressure then you’ll blow the disc as soon as you close the remote valve, but the good news is an unloader valve can be added to just about any jetter. Note that all Brute and Eagle jetters already include a proper “pressure-regulating” unloader valve, as do our gas-powered Drain Invader PRO jetter models.

Benefit: “manual” remote valve-control can have a “hose-reach” advantage:

• Allows 100% of your jetter’s “main” hose length to be used to reach the remote-jetting access, since the secondary hose will be doing the jetting. Many Jetters Northwest customers use this setup when working in apartment complexes or multi-unit facilities where hose-reach into the building is critical.
• Many operators keep their “remote” hose on a portable reel which can hold 200 feet or more of secondary jetting-hose, enabling deep runs into the pipe to be jetted.

“Manual” Method #1: High-Pressure Ball-Valve Control

This manual Ball-Valve remote-control option has been popular with operators who want a simple and inexpensive solution. This method is best suited for remote jetting where precise hose-control is more important than instant on/off control, as it takes a moment to reach back and turn the valve-handle to stop jetting.

• Simply open the ball-valve to start the jetting and close the valve to stop. This enables your hands to be free to work the jetting hose in the line, without having to stand on a foot-control (see below).
• The ball-valve simply installs at the end of your main jetting hose in place of the nozzle, often via quick-couplers. (a secondary hose and nozzle is required to be added downstream of the ball-valve for jetting the line).
• Handy for swapping to smaller hoses when needed for jetting smaller lines without shutting down or walking back out to the jetter.

IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP - the Ball-Valve must be rated for the maximum pressure of your jetter! Too much PSI could burst the ball-valve in your hand, so don’t just use any ball-valve in your truck; check the valve’s pressure-specs before use.

“Manual” Method #2:  Foot-Control Valve

A solid choice for hands-free jetting, the foot control valve lets you start and stop the jetting flow simply by stepping on and off its foot-pedal. This method is best suited for indoor jetting where precise on-off control is more important than personal mobility at the pipe-access. At Jetters Northwest, we often recommend the Foot-Control for busy jobsites that might require a quick “off” for persons to pass by, and for lines that easily back up when jetting so you’ll need to quickly stop the jetting occasionally to let the jetting-water drain down. Key Advantages:

• Using your foot to stop/start the jetting keeps both hands free at all times to work the jetting hose.
• Immediately stops the jetting when you step off the pedal.
• The foot-control easily installs at the end of your main jetting hose in place of the nozzle, often via quick-couplers (a secondary hose and nozzle is required to be added downstream of the foot-valve for jetting the line).
• A quick on/off of the pedal can often “pulse” the nozzle and hose through tight bends and elbows.

Limitations:

• The operator must remain standing on the valve’s pedal to keep jetting, limiting their jobsite mobility, because the foot-valve is spring-loaded to automatically close when you step off.
• Wet & greasy jobsites can cause your foot to slip off the pedal, stopping the jetting unintentionally. This can be a nuisance at restaurants with slick, greasy floors.

IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP - the Foot-Valve must be rated for the pressure and flow of your jetter: Too much GPM from your jetter and the pedal might not shut off the jetting; too much PSI and the valve could burst under your foot. Check the foot-valve’s specs before you buy.

“Manual” Method #3: Hand-Trigger Valve

The hand trigger valve is a lesser-known option for starting and stopping jetting flow but is a smart choice for tight indoor accesses, such as tough-to-reach cleanouts and p-traps. Instead of having to step on a foot-pedal or twist a ball-valve, you start the jetting-flow directly with finger-pull and simply let go to stop jetting, just as you would control a power-washer, without the long, cumbersome “wand”. Why operators like it:

• Allows handy jetting on/off control while crouched under sinks and other tight spaces.
• Provides instant “off” if the line backs up while jetting.
• Allows quick movement between multiple drain lines without breaking rhythm.
• Easily installs at the end of your main jetting hose in place of the nozzle, often via quick-couplers (a secondary hose and nozzle is required to be added downstream of the foot-valve for jetting the line).

This setup pairs especially well with “mini-hoses” like 3/16″ stainless trap-jetting hose with micro nozzles for jetting smaller lav lines, floor drains, laundry lines, etc. Many techs use this setup to move quickly between multiple sinks and floor drains in commercial kitchens. For operators who need to control jetting in tight spaces, or multiple lines in a single space, or simply want quick on/off control, the hand-trigger is a compact and effective solution. It’s another way Jetters Northwest helps you tailor your toolset to the jobs you see most often. IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP: The Trigger-Valve must be rated for the pressure and flow of your jetter: Too much GPM from your jetter and the trigger might not shut off; too much PSI and the trigger could burst in your hand. Check the trigger’s specs before use.

Choosing the Right Flow Control Method for You

From Wireless Remote-Control to manually-controlled Ball-Valves, Foot-Pedals, and Hand-Triggers, each option has a place in making indoor jetting with your outdoor jetter more efficient and safe. The right control method (or methods) depends on the jobs you typically do, their jetting-access points, how much flexibility you need in the field, and your budget. Many operators that have invested in wireless-remote will still occasionally use one or more of the manual control-valves if it suits the job best. More tools for more jetting versatility - the choices are up to you. And if you’re considering adding a new jetter, it’s worth looking at jetters that include a wireless remote-control and unloader-valve built into the machine. That combination saves time, provides versatility, reduces downtime, and – most importantly – gives you more control on the job. Check here to get a closer look at all these remote control options and how they compare. Ready to step up your jetting game? Contact Jetters Northwest today, explore our full line of jetters and accessories, and visit our "Get" Jetting YouTube channel for real-world demos and training. Get the knowledge, get equipped, and let’s “get” jetting!